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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.